Day 41: 11 May 2009

LOCATION: MATSUYAMA, UWAJIMA AND OKAYAMA
MOOD: AMUSED
LISTENING TO: D-12 – GIT UP

THE SUMMER OF LOVE:

Waking up in The Faraway Tree had me in quite a 60s mood so I decided to use my second (and final) day in Shikoku by travelling to the town of Uwajima, which lies in the southwest of the island around and hour and half from Matsuyama by train. A town of Uwajima's size and location would normally be a quiet backwater, but thanks to the Lonely Planet guide and other such prying tourist manuals it has become notorious as one of the last towns in Japan to have a sex shrine.

The country-side on the way to Uwajima was picture perfect.

There was even a mini-castle.

Before any of the guys get too excited or the girls get too grossed out, I should clarify. Japan's native religious tradition placed great emphasis on fertility rites, but this tradition was successively eroded by the arrival of Buddhism from mainland Asia and (in much greater measure) Puritanism from Europe. Most of the shrines were torn down and only a few remain today. There are still suggestive grottoes and carvings scattered around rural Japan, but the shrines are truly in a world of their own.

Welcome to breezy Uwajima. Feel free to get tropical.

The main street. It was clearly peak hour.

The road to the shrine.

Strangely enough, the shrine was tucked away in this peaceful suburban enclave.

The shrine in question is known in Japanese as Dekoboko-Jinja, meaning 'uneven, bumpy shrine'. From the outside it's an unassuming structure nestled in amongst a nondescript suburban enclave. I even wondered whether I had arrived at the right place until I saw the giant wooden phallus. Suffice to say photos from the establishment are most definitely NOT safe for work, but you can imagine what a four floor shrine dedicated to sex-related artefacts from around the world (organised by geographic region) is like. Interestingly enough the European exhibit was dominated by latex and fetish equipment.

This little sign is the only thing that informs you that you've arrived at the right place. I believe that raincoat, hat and sunglasses are required once you go through the gate.

The garden leading up to the shrine itself was pretty normal. Are you sure this is the right place?

...yep, this is definitely the right place.

Although I'm sure the residents would argue otherwise, I really didn't find much else of interest in the town. Being on the coast and towards the southern end of Japan it had a distinctly more south-east Asian/Pacific feel to it, from the muggy climate to the palm trees. I walked around the centre of town for a while, mailed off some post cards and decided to drop in on Uwajima Castle. I almost decided not to go as I would be cutting it very close in terms of catching my train, but the chance to see one of the last authentic feudal structures in Japan (no ferroconcrete) and getting hilltop views of the area was too enticing. About halfway up the steep stone steps I realised that I probably wasn't going to make my train if I kept going at a steady pace so I was left with the choice of running up the steps with a fully laden backpack (including laptop) or turning back. I'll let the pictures tell you which option I chose.

Trying to keep up with this middle aged businessman (who for some reason decided to scale the mountain in the middle of a Monday) wasn't a good idea. I guess I could run fast too if I wasn't lugging around my worldly possessions on my back.

The view was worth it.

The castle itself wasn't that impressive, but given the climb I had just endured I didn't blame the carpenters and craftsmen.

The train ride back was fairly uneventful apart from the fact that I got to ride the Anpanman train. For those not in the know, Anpanman is a children's show aimed at kindergarden aged kids that features a main character with a sticky bun (anpan) for a head. His allies are Meronpanman (Melon Bread Man) and Shokupanman (White Bread Man), and he is locked in what seems to be a perpetual struggle with Baikinman (Germ Man). The train is unique to Shikoku, and although Anpanman is an icon in Japan (think Elmo) I still got a few weird looks when we pulled up to stations on the way.

I wanted to get an Anpanman plushie before I left Japan, but I never got around to it.

The trip was perhaps the longest I've taken so far, seeing as it involved the 1.5 hour ride to Matsuyama followed by the 3 hour trip to Okayama and the 20 minute ride to Kurashiki. Even though it was a repeat episode the scenery was still spectacular, especially the fifteen minute ride across the bridge that links Shikoku to the mainland.

Another shot of the inland sea. Apologies for the girders.

We'd already reached the mainland by this point, but it was the best unobscured shot I could get.

MR BIGSHOT LAWYER MAN:

By the time I got to Kurashiki it was already dark so I got some dinner and headed back to the hotel. I was checking my e-mail on the hotel computer (they didn't have wireless) when I was approached by the proprietor. After a short chat about where I was from and where I was headed next he came out with his true intention and asked me whether I could help him with some translations. The lady from the other day had told him that I was a lawyer and seeing as I had been willing to spend some time chatting with him he felt comfortable asking for my help.

It wasn't anything difficult; he just wanted me to proofread some English instructions for the heating/cooling unit in the guest rooms. To be honest the draft he showed me wasn't fantastic and I had to clarify in Japanese what his true intent was, but I eventually managed to craft a clear and succinct wording. I was pretty much worn out by then, but getting his sincere thanks made it feel worth while. I honestly don't think I have enough of an aptitude for languages to ever be a translator but it was a gratifying experience nonetheless.

I don't have a photo of my gratification at that point, so you'll have to make do with this shot of late-afternoon Kurashiki.